About that lapel buttonhole: why is it even there?

Have you ever thought that it’s a bit odd to have a buttonhole on your jacket lapel, but no button on the other side? Why is it even there in the first place? 

Like so many things in menswear, there are a handful of origin stories, many of which have very practical beginnings. This historical context has always been one of the reasons that I love being in the custom clothing business. It’s fun to research the genesis of sartorial tradition and style. And I’ve learned that my clients love learning about the history too. 

So, about the buttonhole in question…while doing my research for this piece, I actually found a handful of stories, and there are probably more.

Apparently, sometime in the early 20th century, gentlemen would wear their dress hats complete with a small elastic cord with a button on the end. This button on a string was used to fasten to their jacket lapel, such that in windy conditions they wouldn’t lose their hat should it blow off. Doesn’t get much more practical than that!

Another story is that at one point in history there frequently was a button on the opposite suit lapel, but not on the top. Instead, it was stitched on the underside such that you could button the coat all the way up in very chilly conditions. I think that this is a great idea, especially since you can’t see the button with it being on the underside of the lapel. 

Yet another origin story, and my personal favorite, is that Prince Albert (1819 – 1861) was presented with a small bouquet of flowers by his bride, Queen Victoria. Ever the romantic, the Prince cut a small hole in his jacket lapel right then and there to wear the flowers. His tailor was no doubt a savvy one and subsequently made the smart move to include a small hole on the left lapel on all of his jackets. Needless to say, the trend stuck.

But fast forward to today and the buttonhole remains largely unused. Except for weddings, of course, when the florist will almost always pin a boutonniere over the buttonhole, instead of utilizing it as Prince Albert had. Personally, I’m working to educate my florist friends on this history such that they can make their bouts just a touch smaller and thereby fit through the buttonhole. 

Furthermore, if you look closely on well made jackets, you’ll see that there is a small bit of thread running horizontal on the backside of your jacket lapel, just below the lapel buttonhole. This is where your flower stem goes. It’s a neat little trick to keeping everything in place.

By the way, in Europe the lapel buttonhole itself is called a boutonniere, whereas in the US, a boutonniere refers to the floral arrangement.

So, there you have it. Pretty cool history, isn’t it?

By the way, I think that there’s a lot of value in having your tailor or custom suit manufacturer install a small button on the underside of your opposite lapel, such that you can button all the way up. Pair with a scarf and a pair of slick looking driving gloves and you’re good to go.

And of course during the summer months, don’t forget to put that buttonhole to good use and put a flower in there!

About Ryan Wagner:

Ryan co-founded Bespoke Edge, headquartered in Denver, CO and currently serves on the CTDA’s Board of Directors as Secretary.

In addition to writing here, Ryan writes on the Bespoke Edge blog. Here’s one of his favorite articles for groom’s, on the topic of shopping for a new tuxedo.