January 10, 2020

A Beer & (Industry) Buzz Series Returns…

Process – working smarter, not harder, for the client who is worth the effort The Beer & the (Industry) Buzz Series returns… “Process: working smarter, not harder, for the client who is worth the effort.” Q&A will follow the presentation. Join us as CTDA members, the King Brothers, lead the presentation and share their client experiences and insights. Grab a beer and join us for this great complimentary event! When: Sunday, January 19, 2020 @ 5 PM Where: Cooper John’s Pub, 2nd Floor, 160 W 54th Street (between 6th & 7th Avenues) New York, NY 10019 (across the street from […]
September 20, 2019

In Memory of CTDA Past President Dominic Ventresca

It is with sadness that we announce the sudden passing of Custom Tailors and Designers Association of America’s (CTDA) Past President, Dominic Ventresca, on September 17, 2019.  A long-time Doylestown, PA resident, Dominic was born in Torre dei Nolfi, Italy, from where he emigrated at age 19 with nothing but a suitcase. As a young man, Dominic learned tailoring from his father-in-law; eventually, in 1964 he established his own successful tailoring business which he ran until his retirement. He served as president of the Philadelphia chapter of the CTDA, as well as president of the national chapter of the CTDA.  Dominic is […]
June 28, 2019

In Memory of Master Tailor Nino Caldarone

It is with a heavy heart that the Custom Tailors & Designers Association remembers Master Tailor Nino Calderone of Custom Tailoring & Styling by Nino Caldarone in Ramsey, NJ who passed away unexpectedly yesterday.  Nino Caldarone made custom clothes for over forty years.  He started his training as a young man in Montella, Italy and then continued his craft when he immigrated to the United States in 1954. Nino is well known in his field as a Master Tailor and has a fine reputation for quality workmanship and precise fitting for both men and woman. When he made custom clothing, he would create a pattern for […]
March 8, 2019

When All Clothing Was Custom: 18th Century Tailoring

By Andrew Yamato My friend David Niescior works as a historical interpreter at the colonial-era Old Barracks in Trenton, New Jersey. In a small top-floor room in the officer’s building he’s commandeered as his workshop, he is one of very few individuals in the world accurately practicing the art of 18th century tailoring. Modern fire code prevents him from heating a traditional iron over hot coals, but with the exception of a modern electrical iron, Niescior works entirely with period tools and techniques to fashion historically accurate reproductions of 18th century civilian and military clothing. His bespoke, handmade garments are […]
January 15, 2019

The Brotherly Spirit

One of my first impressions on attending the CTDA’s Designer Forum in New York last summer was how the membership is composed almost entirely of small to medium-sized businesses. The apparel industry as a whole is notoriously dominated by massive multinational corporations, which in turn are often just assets in the portfolios of even larger holding companies. Holding companies don’t exist to make anything but money, and that ethos has unfortunately trickled down through much of the industry, eventually pooling at the bottom with retail operations that too often don’t know what they’re selling and don’t care whom they’re selling […]
October 16, 2018

If the Suit Fits (It’s Probably Custom) – Part 2: The Rise and Fall of Comfort (and Trousers)

By Andrew Yamato Last month I outlined what I think are the elements of proper fit for suit jackets and sport coats, Before I continue that analysis with trousers, I’d like to take a look how we arrived at a moment in menswear whengood fit is such a rarity. Bearing in mind that any notion of sartorial propriety is to some extent a matter of personal preference, I believe that comfort is at least as important as appearance to good fit. For most of the past century this belief was generally shared by a menswear trade that was heavily invested […]
August 21, 2018

If the Suit Fits…(It’s Probably Custom)

Part 1: The Coat By Andrew Yamato Fred Astaire famously danced around Anderson & Sheppard’s fitting room before taking delivery of a new suit, stopping suddenly every few beats to confirm that the collar lay as it should. While such heroic measures might not be necessary for the rest of us, an educated eye and sensibility is critical when appraising the fit of tailored clothing — not only for the tailor, of course, but also for his client, and — perhaps most of all — for the man who might not yet be buying custom but would like to know […]
July 26, 2018

CTDA’s August Courses in Chicago, IL

Chicago Collective August 5-7, Sun, Mon & Tues theMart There is still time to register for our upcoming classes!   https://ctda.com/education-program/    MEASURING – Sunday, August 5th at 9 AM – 3 PM (with lunch break at 12 PM)   CUSTOM SHIRTS – Monday, August 6th at 9 AM – 11 AM FABRIC KNOWLEDGE – Monday, August 6th at 12 PM – 2 PM SOCIAL MARKETING THE BESPOKE WAY – August 7th at 10 AM – 11 AM Special Presentation (Complimentary. Must RSVP!) Classroom Locations: Chicago Collective theMart 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza, 7th Floor Chicago, IL 60654
July 7, 2018

The Personal Touch

It can take a lot of nerve to walk into a Savile Row shop, especially when you know you’re not going to be buying anything. I’d first found myself mustering this specific courage twenty years ago, as a college student, outfitted in my best secondhand suit and armed with what precious sartorial knowledge I’d been able to glean from the books of Alan Flusser and Bruce Boyer. On that day I’d made my rounds as swiftly and unobtrusively as possible, avoiding what I assumed would be censorious eye contact, purchasing a token pair of Thurston braces on my way out […]
June 6, 2018

The Change of Taste

Custom tailors and clothiers are famously wary of Fashion. We generally offer (or at least market) the more mature, manly virtue of Style, usually based on notions of “classic” or “timeless” taste and proportion that transcend trends. For the rest of the world, however, clothing and fashion are so closely connected that they’re virtually synonymous, a happy roiling riot of whim and consumption. Even as we watch the show from the ancient ramparts of tailored menswear, we do well to remember that our fortress is itself built on shifting sands. What drives fashion trends? “Novelty,” while absolutely true in and […]
May 3, 2018

An Appreciation, an Introduction, and an Appeal

I was walking down 7th Avenue at 57th in Manhattan on a crisp September morning when I saw her. A bronze-colored hacking coat, impeccably cut with svelte, liquid drape, worn over a cream cashmere turtleneck. A trim cream pencil skirt, hitting just below stockinged knees, snapping tight with each step of her ankle-height heels. The embodiment of New York chic. She was also ancient. Time had stooped her shoulders and twisted her frame. Her closely cropped hair was thin and grey. She walked slowly, with one hand firmly on the stiff handle of her companion (seeing eye?) dog and the […]
February 1, 2018

About that lapel buttonhole: why is it even there?

Have you ever thought that it’s a bit odd to have a buttonhole on your jacket lapel, but no button on the other side? Why is it even there in the first place?  Like so many things in menswear, there are a handful of origin stories, many of which have very practical beginnings. This historical context has always been one of the reasons that I love being in the custom clothing business. It’s fun to research the genesis of sartorial tradition and style. And I’ve learned that my clients love learning about the history too.  So, about the buttonhole in question…while doing my […]